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TOPIC: Nano HDA - No AVR Setup Review - 4K

Nano HDA - No AVR Setup Review - 4K 2 weeks 4 days ago #34418

I’d like to dump my AVR entirely. It’s obsolete and just complicates things in my setup. Here’s my proposed installation using the Nano HDA:

Sources:
Apple TV 4K
Samsung 8500 UHD BLu Ray Player

Samsung set to 7.1 LPCM output (decoding Dolby and DTS 7.1)
Apple TV set to 7.1 LPCM output (also deciding Dolby 7.1)

Samsung HDMI 2 output carrying audio to the HDMI audio input 1 of the HDA(also carries a 1080p signal at HDMI 1.4) HDMI HDCP 2.2 output 1 of Samsung will carry 4K Video to display

Apple TV HDMI output will go to an HDLinker Integral where it will strip the LPCM audio and send it to output 2 of the Integral. Output 1 will carry the 4K HDCP 2.2 signal to the display

So HDA will have LPCM Audio 7.1 coming in on Inputs 1 and 2 and video will be going directly to the display device for input switching there.

RCA 2v 7 channel outputs to respective 7 channel amps. The LFE x.1 will then goto a Mini 2x4HD which will run MSO for 3 ported subs.

Bass management will take place in the HDA

Volume control and input switching controlled via IR.

Harmony Elite will configure HDA, display device, and Integral through Macro for Samsung or Apple content.

Assumptions: We only intend to use Apple TV and Samsung as content, as they play all content we could ever want in the HT. We have no interest in Atmos at this time, we’re content with Dolby True HD and DTS At 7.1

Bye bye Over rated (yawn) and obsolete 1989 AVR!!

Do I have any blind spots in my plan? Any issues with the plan?

Now if you only made a Nano with DtoA converter (analog 2v outs) and Bass Management, I could have Dirac with this setup. Even if I got an outboard D to A converter for the NanoDL, I still have no Bass Management.

Thanks in advance!
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Nano HDA - No AVR Setup Review - 4K 1 week 5 days ago #34477

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Hello

Sounds like a nice setup!
Quick comments to make sure you're aware of these.
a) The nanoAVR won't be able to have other inputs than PCM in. So you must make sure to setup your ATV and blueray players as PCM in. Like in this app note: www.minidsp.com/applications/home-theate...ac-live-on-apple-tv4

b) Note also that the nanoAVR is HDMI1.4 so I'm afraid that it won't support 4K resolution. That's to be aware.

c) Your idea of having BM + DL into the nanoAVR HDA is indeed a good one. Lots of ppl been asking for it.. :-)
Maybe in the future we can see if it's possible.. It's very tricky to fit everything under that hood.
MiniDSP, building a DIY DSP community one board at a time.
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Nano HDA - No AVR Setup Review - 4K 1 week 5 days ago #34490

devteam wrote:
Hello

Sounds like a nice setup!
Quick comments to make sure you're aware of these.
a) The nanoAVR won't be able to have other inputs than PCM in. So you must make sure to setup your ATV and blueray players as PCM in. Like in this app note: www.minidsp.com/applications/home-theate...ac-live-on-apple-tv4

b) Note also that the nanoAVR is HDMI1.4 so I'm afraid that it won't support 4K resolution. That's to be aware.

c) Your idea of having BM + DL into the nanoAVR HDA is indeed a good one. Lots of ppl been asking for it.. :-)
Maybe in the future we can see if it's possible.. It's very tricky to fit everything under that hood.

Thanks, so for everyone’s benefit reading this, the above configuration splits the HDCP2.2 4K HDMI video signal from a HDCP 1.4 Audio LPCM HDMI signal, so the video goes to the display device and the 1.4 audio goes to the Nano. Nano never sees anything higher than 1.4. The Samsung does this Natively and the HDFury Integral does this for the Apple TV. I run an Integral anyway to pull out HDR from the BT2020 WCG 4K content from the UHD player, as the JVC RS400 sometimes looks better with SDR than Trying to produce HDR.

In any case this eliminates the need for an AVR. Having the DtoA , Dirac and BM in a 19” rack mount (88A or 4x10 enclosure) would be fine!

With a 1000$ investment I could either get an AVR having a lot of features I’ll never use or inputs I’ll never use and be stuck with Audyssey (yawn), or I could invest in a Nano HDA or DL(with a good DtoA breakout). No brainer for me.

Thanks Guys! I’ll be happy to try out a Beta for the NanoHDA w/DL and BM! Balanced or Unbalanced outputs in a 88A form factor, 88A price point, Sold!!
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Nano HDA - No AVR Setup Review - 4K 5 days 4 hours ago #34610

I have a setup similar to the one you described: nano avr hda and HD fury Integral (and also the hd fury splitter which I'm not using at the moment). this was all bought to setup a 4k PC/home theatre/entartainment system: it's a long term project and I still have to choose the final TV (waiting for the right OLED TV) but the premise is having the PC as the only source of media, outputting 4k video and PCM audio, with one path of the signal going to the tv, and the other to the nanoavr. you can choose the output format for each channel, with video, only audio, what resolution etc.
the RCA outputs from the nanoAVR go to an active subwoofer and two power amps, so that one bi-amps the front channels (4ch.) , and the center channel (2ch. bridged), and the other amp drives the rear channels (I use a 5.1 setup).

My advantage of using the nanoAVR is that I can bi-amp the front two-way speakers without using any passive crossover, and still having all the other channels that I need.
I also do music production as a hobby: the HD fury integral is great because it has an AUX audio IN so that I can "inject" a stereo signal coming from my mixer straight into the HDMI signal, and passing through the nanoAVR.
I don't even need an AV receiver because my only source is the computer.
The best thing as about those two devices used together is the versatility and the ability to tailor everything to my needs both in the audio and video compartments.
The only drawback of using the nanoavr with no preamp and going straight into the power is the volume control: you don't have a volume knob, and there's no feedback on where you are with the volume using IR. The only way is to use the android app, which is not great because it needs to reconnect every time you switch the main app on the smartphone, so you can't practically use it all the time for quick volume adjustments.

BTW if i'm not mistaken you can have a simpler setup by using both the INs on the Integral, and having it work as a splitter, so you have switch only one button to go from one source to the other instead of having it all in parallel like you described.
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